Onward 3-1/2 in. Security Hasp
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Onward 3-1/2 in. Security Hasp
The mounting screws are hidden once the hasp is locked. On a plain hasp those screws sit exposed and can simply be undone, which makes the padlock beside the point; this pattern covers them instead.
That is the entire difference and it is the one that matters. If a hasp is protecting anything worth taking, it should be a security hasp.
- Screws are covered in the locked position
- 3-1/2 in.
- The plain-hasp alternative leaves its screws exposed to be undone
- Model 0310672
- Pair it with a closed-shackle padlock, since a hardened hasp with an open-shackle padlock just moves the weak point to the padlock
How to install
- Fit the hasp so that in the locked position the plate fully covers every mounting screw. Check this before you drive the last screw, not after.
- Use screws long enough to reach framing timber rather than cladding.
- On anything genuinely security-critical, use carriage bolts through the door with the heads outside and the nuts inside.
- Fit a closed-shackle padlock. An open shackle can be cut with bolt croppers regardless of how good the hasp is.
Questions
How is this different from a normal hasp?
The plate covers its own mounting screws when locked, so they cannot be unscrewed while the padlock is on. A plain hasp leaves them exposed.
Does it come with a padlock?
No.
What padlock should I use?
A closed-shackle padlock. A hardened hasp with an open-shackle padlock just moves the weak point to the padlock.
Should I screw it or bolt it?
Bolt it wherever you can. Screws into timber are the weakest part of any hasp installation.